背负历史勇敢迈前的波兰 Poland: Time to Move on

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　　对于大多数中国人来说,波兰是个既熟悉又陌生的国度,但其实这个孕育了伟大音乐家肖邦的地方,她的命运我们应该会有所共鸣的:一百多年前还是欧洲的一个大帝国,但由于是俄罗斯与欧洲交往的要塞,近百年来一直背负着沉痛屈辱的历史——一边是俄罗斯的不断欺凌,一边是法国、德国等国家的不断占领。几乎每个波兰人都可以跟你说上一段与他们、或者他们祖辈有关的辛酸故事。但到了21世纪的今天,波兰人终于慢慢走出阴影,勇敢面对前路,希望通过他们的勤劳赢得世人的尊重和自己的幸福。
　　
　　Michael Palin (Narrator): On September 1st, 1939, World War II began over there on Westerplatte, when the German warship Schleswig-Holstein opened fire on the Polish 1)garrison. They held out very gamely, but within a matter of weeks, all of Poland was overrun. By the end of the war, the Poles had lost 20% of their population.
　　Warsaw suffered 2)dreadfully in World War II. In his fury at the 3)uprising of 1944, Hitler ordered the city removed from the map. Over 800,000 citizens died or disappeared. After the war Poland’s capital was rebuilt by the Communists.
　　
　　Stalin gave this Palace of Culture to the Poles to show how much they meant to the USSR.
　　Michael: Did you want it?
　　Monica: Apparently he gave us a choice; you either get a metro system or a palace of culture. We said, “Oh, can we have metro, please?” He said, “Okay, I’ll give you the palace.” That’s how it started.
　　My guide is Polish journalist Monica Richardson.
　　Michael: Well, you can see really, it sort of 4)plunks itself down right in the middle of acity like something
　　alien creature.
　　Monica: Yes.
　　Michael: Do you feel that…
　　Monica: Like a scar.
　　Michael: As someone from Warsaw?
　　Monica: Absolutely! This cuts the city right in half.
　　Michael: Yeah. When you look out at your city from here, I mean, do you find it a little grey and…I mean, do you think it’s a beautiful city?
　　Monica: No, it’s not a beautiful city, but it’s a working city. I have a lot of respect for it. You know, good down to earth city of people, who have busy lives.
　　Michael: Yeah. I mean, you get a great view of the city without having to see the Palace of Culture; suppose in that way it’s kind of…
　　Monica: A blessing in 5)disguise.
　　Michael: It’s better to be in it than be out there looking at it.
　　Monica: Absolutely! It’s an awful place.
　　Michael: Well, it’s got a certain grandeur. An 6)edifice like this brings to mind some form of architectural 7)imperialism plunked down to dominate the 8)subjugated people.
　　Monica: Very true, but it’s become a symbol of Warsaw whether we(’re) happy about this or not, just like the fact that Warsaw’s such an old new city.
　　
　　Plenty of Poles have come to work in the UK, but I’m off to meet an Englishman who’s happier working in Poland. He’s a 9)Cockney called Kevin Easton. He came here 15 years ago, without a visa, doing whatever jobs he could find and picking up the language along the way. He’s ended up in the Polish Fire 10)Brigade.
　　Kevin: …and when I got the hang of the Polish language and I felt confident enough, I knocked on the doors of the Polish Fire Brigade and said, “Hi, I want to be a fireman. Can I?” Passed all the tests and everything. They said, “Sure! Come on in.” And today I’m a section leader in the Polish Fire Brigade.
　　Michael: You say lightly that, “Oh, I learned the language”, but it must have been very, very difficult. I find it a very difficult language indeed with the “z” and the…
　　Kevin: Polish actually is amongst five of the most difficult languages in the world, and I don’t know how I’ve done it.
　　Michael: How did you do it? Did you do it from books or…
　　Kevin: No.
　　Michael: …just from…
　　Kevin: No books.
　　Michael: …over time?
　　Kevin: No, no. Over…over…one point, Michael,…over about, whoa, I wouldn’t even like to think about it, ’cause I’m sure I’ve drunk a car learning this Polish language. But the best way to learn Polish, really, is just to buy a beer. Buy the Polish guy a beer, sit down and chat with him.
　　Michael: How similar are the Poles to the English, or how different?
　　Kevin: Oooh, they’re very different. I wouldn’t say similar; they’re not similar at all. They’re very, very, very opposites, I would say, but they’re opposites which attract. Um, Poles, for example, they’re very gallant. If they…if you’re talking about women, they kiss women on the hand for “hello” and “goodbye”. An English guy does this, you know, “Hi, how are you do?” So it’s a little bit cold and stuff. The Poles are very hospitable. If you go to their house, they’ll empty out the whole fridge and knock on the neighbour’s door to get their fridge emptied to put on their table in order to entertain you. I would say this one thing for the Poles that are in my country, is that I hope that Great Britain treats them as well as Poland has treated me here. That’s the best that I could ever wish them, really.
　　
　　Two hours from the 11)monastery is one of the most infamous places in Europe. Occupied Poland was where the Nazis put their most 12)notorious 13)concentration camps.
　　This, one of the earliest, is in the town of Oswiecim; in German––Auschwitz.
　　Converted in 1940 from a Polish army 14)barracks, Auschwitz 1 is where the techniques of mass killing were honed. This was one of the gas chambers, and these were some of the first ovens developed to destroy quickly and efficiently all traces of organized murder. In the rooms where men, women, and children were 15)incarcerated are displays of what was found when the camp was finally liberated. Canisters of the killing gas, 16)Zyklon-B, piles of human hair, and somehow most moving of all for me, the bags and suitcases that once contained someone’s last possessions, and on them the names of their owners, written in hope.
　　I suppose it’s good that places like this are still here, with the evidence of 17)brutality kept in good condition. But I wish I could believe that people will never be like this again.

　　
　　迈克尔·佩林(主持人):1939年9月1日,第二次世界大战在维斯特普拉特(海滩)爆发,德国战舰什勒斯维希·霍尔斯坦号向波兰守军发炮。波兰军英勇抵抗,但数周之后,整个波兰还是沦陷了。战争结束时,波兰人口减少了
　　两成。
　　华沙在二战中伤亡惨重,1944年的华沙起义触怒了希特勒,他下令要华沙从地图上消失,超过80万的市民死去或失踪。战后共产党重建了这个波兰首都。
　　
　　斯大林送了这座文化宫给波兰人,以示苏联对他们何其重视。
　　迈克尔:你们想要它吗?
　　莫尼卡:很显然,他给了我们两个选择:要地铁还是文化宫。我们说,“哦,我们可以要地铁吗?”他说,“好吧,我给你们文化宫。”这就是它的来历。
　　我的导游是波兰记者莫尼卡·理
　　查森。
　　迈克尔:一望而知,它就像是砰的一声降落在市中心的一头巨型的异形怪物。
　　莫尼卡:是的。
　　迈克尔:你同意这个说法吗……
　　莫尼卡:是像个疤痕。
　　迈克尔:作为一个华沙人?
　　莫尼卡:的确是这样!它把全市划分为二了。
　　迈克尔:是的。当你由这儿向外望全市,我是说,你发觉这儿灰沉沉吗……还是,你觉得这是一座美丽的城市?
　　莫尼卡:不,她不是一座美丽的城市,但她是一座实干的城市。我对此深深敬佩。这里都是些脚踏实地的人们,他们在过着繁忙的生活。
　　迈克尔:是的。向外望可以饱览城市风光,又不见文化宫。好像一种感觉……
　　莫尼卡:一种虚伪的祝福。
　　迈克尔:在宫内反而比在宫外看过
　　来好。
　　莫尼卡:的确!这是个碍眼的建筑。
　　迈克尔:当然,它倒别有一种宏伟。这种高楼让人想起那些建筑帝国主义的形式,如泰山压顶,睥睨着那些受压迫的蚁民。
　　莫尼卡:非常正确,不过,它却已成为华沙的象征,不管我们喜欢与否。就像华沙是一个旧的新城这样的事实。
　　
　　许多波兰人到英国谋生,我却遇上了一个在波兰乐不思蜀的英国人。他是伦敦东区人,名叫凯文·伊斯顿。他15年前不携任何签证来到波兰,有工就做,边做边学波兰语,最后加入了波兰消防队。
　　凯文:……待我掌握了波兰语,有足够的信心时,就到波兰消防队敲门说:“嘿,我想做消防员,可以吗?”然后通过各种考试测试,他们说:“当然可以了!来吧。”今天,我是波兰消防局的分区队长。
　　迈克尔:你说得倒轻松,“我学会了波兰语”,但那一定是非常非常困难。我觉得波兰语难极了,许多“z”等难发的音……
　　凯文:波兰语实际上是世界五大最难学的语言之一。我也不知道自己是怎么学
　　会的。
　　迈克尔:你是怎么学会的?靠书本?还是……
　　凯文:不。
　　迈克尔:……那是靠……
　　凯文:没有靠书本。
　　迈克尔:……靠时间?
　　凯文:不,不。靠……靠……是这样的,迈克尔……,靠那些,哇,我都不想回想了,因为我知道为了学波兰语我灌下海量汪涵。但学波兰语最好的办法是请人喝酒,真的。请一个波兰人喝啤酒,然后坐下和他
　　聊天。
　　迈克尔:波兰人和英国人有多少相似的地方,或者说不同的地方?
　　凯文:哦,他们很不同,我不会说他们相似,他们截然不同。我可以说,他们完全、完全、完全是相反的,但相异而相吸。嗯,举例说吧,波兰人极有风度,如果他们……如果他们与女士说话,会吻手打招呼或道别。而一个英国男人只会说声“你好”,有点冷冷淡淡什么的。波兰人很好客,如果你去他们家,他们会倾尽冰箱所有来招待你,还会去敲邻居家的门,把邻居冰箱掏尽放到桌上来款待你。我有一句话向在我家乡的波兰人说,希望英国人对待他们跟波兰待我一样好。那是我对他们最衷心的祝福,真的。
　　
　　修道院两小时路程之外是一处在欧洲最声名狼藉的地方。最恶名昭著的纳粹集中营就是设在当时被占领的波兰。
　　这一座,最早一批集中营的其中一所建在一个叫Oswiecim的城镇,在德语里叫Auschwitz奥斯维辛。
　　1940年由波兰军营改建而成,奥斯维辛一号是专研集体屠杀的地方。这是其中一个毒气室,这是第一批研发出来的烤炉,用来快捷高效地为集体谋杀毁尸灭迹。还有监禁男女老少的囚室,都是以集中营最终解放时留下的原貌展览的。有杀人毒气氢氰酸的空罐,还有一堆堆的人类头发。而最令我揪心的是,那些装载人们最后财产的行李袋和行李箱,上面写着物主的姓名,写时尚怀着希望。
　　我想留下这样的地方是一件好事,把残暴罪证很好地保存下来。但愿我能相信,人们永不会再做这样的事情。