我们每天奔走于钢筋水泥铸成的城市中,来去匆匆,神色迷茫。当夜幕降临的时候,有多少人能头挨着枕头,微笑着说“我过了充实又美好的一天”?不,在快节奏的生活中,我们做着日复一日的工作、吃着千篇一律的快餐,忘却了太多东西。
生命不应该是这样一个过程,它应该是一段细腻的、灵动的、充满感动和未知的旅程。于是我们是否应该慢下来,跟着“慢食运动”领袖人物Alice Waters品尝四季美食?是否应该走走停停,用心去感受你所走过的每一寸风景?是否我们也能从一段文字、一首歌曲中得到最大的共鸣与满足?
当“慢食”、“慢生活”成为一种时尚,或者我们终于找到了最善待自己的时尚。
发音：美式发音 语速：160词/分钟 使用方法：泛听+一分钟演讲
When it comes to food, Alice Waters is a legend. At 65, she has done more to change how we Americans eat, cook and think about food than anyone since Julia Child[注1].
Alice Waters was only 27 years old in 1971 when she opened her French 1)bistro Chez Panisse[注2] in Berkeley, California, today considered one of the finest restaurants not just in the United States but in the world. Waters has produced eight cookbooks, but she’s more famous as the mother of a movement that 2)preaches about fresh food grown in a way that’s good for the environment. The movement, now called “slow food”, is a healthy alternative to “fast food”.
It all started here at Alice’s temple, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. She still shows up almost every day, as she has for the last 37 years, to 3)oversee the cooking with her 4)exquisite, 5)infallible taste buds.
It’s not just the cooking that has made her famous—it’s the ingredients. She was one of the first to serve 6)antibiotic and 7)hormone free meats and insist on fresh, 8)organic, locally-grown fruits and vegetables.
Alice Waters in the kitchen: This(tomato) has beautiful flavor and I just love the way it looks.
Reporter: You started a revolution in food. How we think about food. How we cook food. But do you think of yourself as a revolutionary?
Waters: I guess I do now, but when I started Chez Panisse, I wasn’t thinking of a 9)philosophy about organic and sustainable. I just was looking for flavor.
Flavor, that comes from serving only seasonal food, one of her 10)hallmarks. Say “frozen”, and Alice Waters 11)shudders. Because all her food has to be fresh, she buys only from local 12)ranchers, fishermen and farmers.
People who meet Alice Waters are struck by how gentle and dreamy she seems to be, and they wonder how someone like that became so successful. Truth is, Alice Waters is a 13)steamroller, 14)relentlessly going after what she wants. And now she wants everyone to cook the way she does. And that’s put her in the spotlight
Waters at an event: People have become aware that the way that we’ve been eating is making us sick.
说到饮食,艾利斯·华特斯就是个传奇。今年65岁的她是继茱莉亚·蔡尔德之后,另一个能对美国人在饮食、烹调以及对待食物态度上产生影响的人。
1971年,年仅27岁的艾利斯·华特斯在加利福尼亚州伯克利开了她的法国餐厅Chez Panisse,今天,这家餐厅是美国乃至全球都公认的最好的餐厅之一。华特斯还出版了八本餐饮书籍,但她最为人知的身份是那场倡导食物的新鲜和就地取材的运动的创始人。这场如今被称为“慢食主义”的运动,成为“速食主义”外的另一个健康选择。
这一切都起源于这里,位于加利福尼亚州伯克利市、由艾利斯一手创办的饮食天堂Chez Panisse。与过去37年间一样,她依然每天出现在这里,用她那细腻、精准的味蕾来检视餐厅的出品。
让她名声大噪的不仅仅是她的烹饪技术——还有食物原材料。她是最先采用不含抗生素和荷尔蒙激素的肉类材料、坚持采用本地所产的新鲜有机绿色水果和蔬菜的厨师之一。
厨房里的艾利斯:这个(西红柿)果香浓郁,我非常喜欢它的样子。
记者:你领导了一场食物的革命,包括我们对食物的看法、我们烹饪的方式等。那么你自己是否觉得你就是一个改革家呢?
华特斯:我想我现在的确是这么想的。但在我开办Chez Panisse餐厅的时候,我并没有想及这个有机及可持续发展的食物哲学。我当时只是在寻找一种味觉享受。
利用季节性食物带出特殊的风味享受,也是她的标志之一。如果你提到“冷冻”等字眼,艾利斯·华特斯就浑身打冷颤,因为她的所有食物素材都必须是新鲜的。她只跟当地的牧场、渔民和农民打交道。
见过艾利斯·华特斯的人都会惊叹她外表的温婉和梦幻的感觉,进而产生疑问,一个这样的人如何取得如此巨大的成功。事实是,艾利斯·华特斯就好像一部压路机,坚决地扫平障碍,追求她想要的东西。如今,她追求的就是每个人都能像她一样烹饪。而正是这个,使她成为了公众焦点。
活动中的华特斯:人们已经开始明白,我们现在的饮食习惯正在危害我们的健康。
She has become the leader of a movement to change how we eat. And she’s getting 15)traction. Now you can go to your neighborhood grocery store, even Wal-Mart, and buy organic. But in the process, she’s become a target.
Reporter: People say Alice Waters is 16)self-righteous and 17)elitist. And these are words I’ve heard over and over.
Waters: I feel that good food should be a right and not a privilege and it needs to be without 18)pesticides and 19)herbicides. And everybody deserves this food. That’s not elitist.
Even as a little girl, Alice said she had a keen sense of taste. But what turned her into a cook was going to France in 1965 and eating simple, healthy country food. She had her 20)epiphany. Back at Berkeley, she was an activist involved in movements: anti-war, free speech, women’s rights. But what she really loved was cooking, and feeding her friends. And she still does.
One day last August, she took us to a Mexican food 21)stall in San Francisco where friends of hers were making slow food to go with organic corn and lots of spices.
Reporter: You didn’t tell me there was a bite. My eyes are watering.
Waters: And you have to have a taste, too.
You realize two things when you travel around with Alice Waters: one is that deep down she loves it when people eat, and you can’t resist her.
Newsom: How can you not love Alice Waters?
Gavin Newsom, a Waters 22)disciple, is the Mayor of San Francisco.
Newsom: She has, I think, done more to change our eating habits for the better than anyone in the United States of America.
Reporter: 23)Obesity, huge issue now…
Newsom: Yeah. We consume 24)lousy food. This is killing us. I mean it really is. We have a drinking and eating problem in this country, not just in San Francisco. And this whole movement to me is the 25)antidote for that.
Alice talked Newsom into letting her organize a “slow food” festival outside City Hall last September. Growing the slow food movement is one of her passions: she was 26)ecstatic that 85,000 people showed up.
She walked us through the taste 27)pavilions, introducing us to her 28)acolytes: organic cheese merchants and bakers.
Waters: So nice that you came. Ah, it’s beautiful.
The centerpiece of the event was this—a 29)sprawling, urban victory garden.
Reporter: So this is a real vegetable garden in front of City Hall.
Waters: The ultimate symbolism.
The garden, Alice’s idea, was planted to encourage people to grow their own.
Waters: This is all the kale. And there’s a little variety of… broccoli.
Reporter: Broccoli?
Waters: Broccoli.
She brought us over to one of her favorite local farmers, John Lagier, who uses only eco-friendly, or as Alice would say, “sustainable” methods. That day he was showing off his specialty grapes.
Lagier: It’s called Bronx seedless.
Reporter: Are these more expensive?
Lagier: I have these priced at $4 a pound.
There’s the rub. A common complaint about organic food—it’s expensive.
Waters: We make decisions everyday about what we’re going to eat. And some people want to buy Nike shoes—two pairs, and other people want to eat Bronx grapes, and nourish themselves. I pay a little extra, but this is what I want to do.
她成为了这场改变我们饮食习惯运动的领导人物,而且也渐渐有了影响力。现在你可以在你们附近的杂货店,甚至沃尔玛超市买到有机食物。然而在这个过程中,她也变成攻击的焦点。
记者:人们说艾利斯·华特斯是个自以为是的精英主义者。这些词我听了无数次。
华特斯:我觉得享用好的食物应该是一种人人皆有的权利,而不是一种特权,而且它还应该是不含杀虫剂和除草剂等成分的。每个人都应该吃到这种食物,这并不是精英主义。
早在孩童时代,艾利斯就有着敏锐的味觉。但促使她成为一名厨师却是1965年留学法国时的事,在那里她尝到了简单、健康的乡村食物,并收获了灵感。回到伯克利的她变身激进主义分子参加了多项运动:反战、言论自由、女权主义等。然而她最爱的还是烹饪,还有用美食招呼朋友。现在也如是。
去年八月的一天,她带我们去圣弗朗西斯科一处墨西哥美食摊位,在那儿,她的朋友用有机玉米和辣椒调制慢速美食。
记者:你没有告诉我这里面有辣椒。我的眼泪都流出来了。
华特斯:你也要尝一口。
跟着艾利斯·华特斯到处游走让人明白两件事情:一是当她看到大家吃东西时,她是发自内心地高兴;二,你永远无法拒绝她。
纽瑟姆:你怎么能不爱艾利斯·华特斯呢?
加文·纽瑟姆是圣弗朗西斯科市市长,同时也是华特斯的忠实信徒。
纽瑟姆:我想,她在改进我们的饮食习惯这件事上所作的贡献超过了其他任何一个美国人。
记者:肥胖,现在是个热点话题……
纽瑟姆:对,我们经常摄入一些垃圾食物。而这都是慢性毒药。它们真的会伤害我们。不仅仅在圣弗朗西斯科,整个国家都存在饮酒或饮食问题隐患。而这整个运动(指慢食运动)恰好就是问题的最佳解决方案。
去年九月,艾利斯说服了纽瑟姆,让她在市政厅外面组织一个“慢食主义”聚会。推广慢食运动是她激情投入的事情之一:当她看到八万五千人出现在这个聚会上时简直欣喜若狂。
她陪我们走过各种蔬果帐篷,向我们介绍她的合作伙伴:有机芝士供应商和面包师。
华特斯:你们能来太好了。啊,这太漂
亮了。
这个活动的重头戏正是这个——一个规模庞大的城市花园。
记者:这是个真正的菜园,而且就在市政厅前面。
华特斯:这是最具标志性的东西。
艾利斯提议建造的这个菜园鼓励人们动手种植蔬菜。
华特斯:这一片是甘蓝菜地。这里则种植一些……西兰花的品种。
记者:西兰花?
华特斯:对。
她带我们去见她最喜欢的当地农民,约翰·拉奇尔,他种植的方式都是不破坏生态的,或用艾利斯的话说,“可持续发展的”。那天他给我们展示了他新培育的葡萄。
拉奇尔:它的名字是布朗克斯无核葡萄。
记者:这个品种的价格会不会贵一些?
拉奇尔:我卖出的价格是四美元一磅。
矛盾的地方就在这里。有机食物的最大争议就是——它价格昂贵。
华特斯:我们每天都会决定我们要吃什么东西。有一些人想买耐克鞋——一买就是两双,而有些人想吃布朗克斯无核葡萄,给自己增加些营养。我可能多花了些钱,但这就是我想做的。
注1:茱莉亚·蔡尔德,美国著名厨师、作家和电视节目主持人。她曾登上1966年11月25日的《时代》杂志封面。
注2:位于加州的Chez Panisse餐厅闻名遐迩,更可谓是加州料理的发源地。店名中的Panisse取自法国导演Marcel Pagnol所导影片《Marius》、《Fanny》和《Cesar》中故事人物的名字。Alice Waters希望她一手创办的餐厅能像影片中Panisse的家一样温暖迷人,因此为餐厅取名Chez Panisse。