In the 1)Aeolian Air, Art and 2)Volcanic Fire
The elegant, 19th-century 3)palazzo on the remote Italian island of Salina looked like any other 4)dilapidated building on the 5)promenade paved with slabs of volcanic stone. Water stains6)streaked down its weathered stone 7)facade and a blackened, cast-iron balcony was crammed with 8)rickety chairs.
在意大利偏僻的萨利纳岛上,这座建于19世纪的高雅殿楼看上去跟火山岩板铺就的广场长廊上随便哪座年久失修的老建筑没什么两样,饱经岁月洗礼的外石墙上,水渍滴痕斑斑点点,黑色的铸铁阳台上堆满了摇摇晃晃的的椅子。
But then the 9)fortress-like wooden doors swung open and out walked a priest in white collar, a police chief, and several art collectors and curators. They 10)mingled with artists, fishermen, and curious passersby, sipping white wine while exploring the art in the palazzo’s 11)rambling chambers before squeezing up the narrow stairs to the roof for views of the 12)Tyrrhenian Sea and a distant volcano 13)spouting fire and smoke into the warm evening air.
像城堡大门那般厚实的木门猛然打开,从里面出来一群人,当中有一个穿着白领衣服的神父、一名警长、几位艺术品收藏家和博物馆馆长。他们与艺术家、渔夫和一些好奇的路人混合在一起,喝着白葡萄酒,在那些凌乱地散落在博物馆各处的房间里挖掘艺术珍品。然后,他们挤进窄窄的楼梯走上房顶,欣赏第勒尼安海的景色,还有远处火山向温热的夏日夜空喷着火与烟的一幕。
It was the opening reception for Russian conceptual artist, Vadim Fishkin. The unlikely spectacle was nothing if not 14)surreal, and that may explain why the island of Salina—which is part of the Aeolian Islands, a hard-to-reach volcanic archipelago that juts out of the Tyrrhenian Sea—has become the center of an 15)effervescent art scene.
这是俄罗斯概念派艺术家瓦迪姆·菲什金的作品展的开幕招待会现场。眼前看起来让人难以置信的这一幕绝对是超现实主义的,但可能正是这样,更能让人明白到萨利纳岛——座落在第勒尼安海的边缘的伊奥利亚群岛中的一个小岛,这里交通非常不便利——何以成为喧闹的艺术盛事中心。
Situated in the hook of Italy, just north of Sicily, the Aeolian archipelago is made up of seven inhabitable islands, of which the largest and most developed are Salina, Lipari, and Vulcano. The exhausting journey adds to the 16)mystique. There are no commercial flights to the islands, and most visitors arrive by 17)hydrofoil, which takes about five hours from 18)Naples and four hours from 19)Palermo.
伊奥利亚群岛在意大利的“靴尖”上,位于西西里的北边。它由七个宜居的小岛组成,其中最大、开发得最好的是萨利纳岛、利帕里岛和武尔卡诺岛。要登上这些岛屿需要费不少力气;这一点也让小岛的神秘感陡增。没有商业航班飞往岛上,大部分来客都要花上五个小时从那不勒斯坐水翼船,或者要花上四个小时从巴勒莫坐水翼船才能到达当地。
One popular ferry route goes to 20)Stromboli. From the water, Stromboli looks like a small agricultural village, but with a heavy dose of the 21)offbeat. Hearty locals with 22)potbellies and sideways caps 23)clog the dock, offering tourists white-washed 24)cottages for rent.
从这些岛屿出发坐船到斯特龙博利岛是备受欢迎的一段航程。从水上看,斯特龙博利岛就像是一个以农业为主的小村落,但它实际上非常的另类。大腹便便和将帽子歪戴的热情的当地人把码头围得水泄不通,争先向游客介绍可供出租的白色的农舍。
The island is a surprising contrast. One side is lush, with caper bushes, palm trees, and intensely colored wildflowers. But the other side, which the 25)lava occasionally 26)belches and 27)sears, is black and dead.
这个岛两边的景致反差很大。一边是绿意盎然,有马槟榔灌木、棕榈树和五彩缤纷的野花。而岛上的那一边——火山偶然喷出岩浆,而万物因此枯萎——则是灰黑一片,死气沉沉。
This is hardly the first time the volcano has served as a 28)muse. Artists are drawn to the weird 29)conical shape and seem compelled to recreate it, document it, or 30)riff on its 31)eerie intensity. “Artists like the Aeolians because it’s hard there,” said Marina Abramovic, a 32)Serbian-born artist known for her dramatic performances. “Stromboli” is also the name of Ms. Abramovic’s series of photographs. “It’s a place of intense power and energy,” she said.
在这里,火山早就已经是艺术家的灵感源泉了。那怪异的圆锥形外表吸引着众多艺术家,他们似乎有一种再现、记录眼前景象的冲动,反复咏叹那可怕的强度。“艺术家喜欢伊奥利亚群岛是因为那里环境恶劣,”玛瑞娜·阿布拉莫维克如是说。她是出生在塞尔维亚的艺术家,她的作品以大胆著称。“斯特龙博利”也是阿布拉莫维克女士系列摄影作品的名称。她说,“这是个有着强大力量和巨大能量的地方。”
That’s not to say the island lacks a softer, tourist-friendly side. In San Vincenzo’s main stone square, visitors will find a 33)gelato 34)stand and a cafe serving35)espresso in the shadows of an 36)ocher church from the 18th century. And around dusk every night, small gangs of 37)wild-eyed climbers, amateur geologists, and 38)gonzo tourists gather here.
这当然并不是说岛上缺少柔情、宜人的一面。在圣维琴佐最大的石阶广场上,游客可以在一座建于18世纪的赭色教堂的阴影下找到意大利冰淇淋摊位和供应蒸馏咖啡的咖啡店。每天黄昏时分,这里就会聚集着一群群热血沸腾的登山者、业余地质学家和搞怪的游客。
But things do get less 39)quaint on the other islands. On the remote islands of Filicudi and Alicudi, the land is barren and there are few restaurants and hotels. Winter populations there are 200 to 400. Needless to say, there are not many gelato stands. “The back of Alicudi looks like it’s been in a fight,” said Paola Pivi, a 40)Milanese artist who has spent considerable time photographing the island’s fantastical landscape. “The earth is sort of missing. It’s very violent.”
而在其他岛屿上,你就看不到这般离奇有趣的景象了。在偏远的菲利库迪岛和阿利库迪岛上,土地贫瘠,餐馆和旅馆也不多。冬天常住人口在200到400之间。不用问,那里不会有多少冰淇淋摊档。保拉·皮维是一名来自米兰的艺术家,他花了大量时间拍摄岛上奇妙的地貌。他说,“阿利库迪岛的背面看上去就像经历了一场大战,土壤消失了,地形非常恶劣。”
Pulling into Filicudi’s raw-looking harbor, one immediately longs for shade and a comfortable couch. Rocks are strewn around a 41)dormant volcano, with the sun forming hard shadows. On a recent visit, a few fisherman and construction workers were gathered under the outdoor 42)awning of Da Nino sul Mare, the island’s sole cafe, shouting out to each other like 43)extras from some black-and-white Italian movie.
船一靠近菲利库迪岛那看上去非常原始的港口,你就想马上躲到阴处,躺在舒服的沙发上。休眠火山周围到处都是岩石。在这里,连地上的影子也是有棱有角的。最近一次观光时,我看到有几个渔民和建筑工人聚集在“达·尼诺·苏尔·玛利”——这岛上惟一的咖啡厅的凉篷下,就像那些黑白意大利电影里的一些群众演员那样相互大声嚷嚷。
Filicudi is far from postcard charming. That may be why artists, designers, and architects gravitate to its harsh and 44)serrated shores, said Sergio Casoli, an art dealer from Milan.
你无法在菲利库迪岛上找到明信片般的迷人风光。艺术品交易商塞尔吉奥·卡素利来自米兰,他说,这也许正是这个岛那海岸线参差不齐的海岸及其荒芜的景色吸引了艺术家、设计师和建筑师的原因所在。
But not all of the Aeolian Islands are known for their hard, natural splendor. The smallest island, Panarea, which is about three times the size of Central Park, is famous for its 45)jet-set 46)bacchanal. The island may be lined with fragrant olive trees and 47)picturesque swimming 48)coves, but come August, it’s wall-to-wall49)aristocrats and playboys: 50)bold-faced names like Princess Caroline of Monaco, Prince William, and the fashion designer Roberto Cavalli.
不过,并非伊奥利亚群岛所有的岛屿都以原始的自然景色著称。这其中最小的帕纳雷阿岛的面积大约是纽约中央公园的三倍,它则是因岛上富人的狂欢闹宴而出名。在岛上,芳香的橄榄树成行,还有多个秀丽如画的可供游泳的小海湾做点缀。但到了八月,岛上挤满贵族、寻欢作乐之徒,比如响当当的大人物摩洛哥的卡罗琳公主、英国威廉王子,还有时装设计师罗伯特·卡沃利。
To some eyes, the 51)spectacle lends itself to satire—maybe even art. 52)Aleksandra Mir, who rents a fisherman’s cottage on Panarea every summer, recalled a favorite moment when she witnessed a yacht run into a pile of volcanic rocks. “It seemed to happen in slow motion,” she said, “as the high-tech 53)navigational gear on the boat was overtaken by the slow force of the 54)wave. Hearing and seeing white 55)fiberglass being crushed by the silent volcano was like experiencing the most masterful of sculptures.”
对一些人来说,眼前此景颇具讽刺意味,甚至也算得上一种艺术。亚历山德拉·米尔每年夏天都会在帕纳雷阿岛上租一间渔民的农舍。她想起曾目睹的特别喜欢的一幕:一艘游艇撞上了一堆火山岩。“这事儿发生的经过就好像是一组电影慢镜头,”她说,“船上的高科技导航设备被电磁波的慢速干扰弄得失灵了。亲身耳闻目睹白色的纤维玻璃被沉默不语的火山撞碎,这就像是在欣赏最精巧的雕塑作品。”
