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在斯德哥尔摩闲庭信步 Stockholm: Venice of the North

  一直都对北欧怀有莫名的好感,在众神之王奥丁治理下的这片冰雪王国,从自然到城市、从音乐到建筑,无一不充满了神奇而瑰丽的想象,闪耀着别样的光芒。
  相信大凡读过塞尔玛·拉格洛芙的《尼尔斯骑鹅历险记》的人,一定会对她笔下美丽的瑞典印象深刻,这部奇特的作品也是诺贝尔文学奖上惟一一部入选的童话作品。信步于斯德哥尔摩街头,原来童话即是现实,没有紧张,没有烦恼,连时间都慵懒了起来,这才是生活的真谛……

文字难度:★★★
  
  There’s no better 1)hub for exploring Scandinavia than the beautiful “Venice of the North,” Sweden’s capital, Stockholm.
  假如你想要探索斯堪的纳维亚半岛的话,没有哪里比瑞典的首都斯德哥尔摩更合适了,这座美丽的城市被人们称为“北方威尼斯”。

  From the cultured capital to the wild mountai-nous north, Sweden holds fascination for the arts and history 2)buff and the fan of outdoors’ activities alike. The country’s mountains begin in 3)Dalarna with gentle slopes that build up to a 1,900-kilometer (1,140 miles) chain 4)culminating in the magnificent snow-covered peaks of the far north. The 5)Lapps who live here off fishing and 6)reindeer herding have done an admirable job of retaining their distinctive culture.
  从文化气息浓厚的首都到荒芜的北方山地,瑞典不仅对艺术和历史爱好者闪烁着迷人的魅力,也是户外运动者的挚爱之地。这个国家的山地从达拉那省开始,平缓的坡地蜿蜒1900公里(1140英里)直到遥远的北方那壮丽的冰雪皑皑的顶峰。居住在这里的拉普兰人依靠打鱼和放牧驯鹿为生,并绝妙地保存了他们独特的传统文化。

  But, unlike North America, in Sweden you don’t have to go to the remote north to encounter fresh air and pure water. In fact, in downtown Stockholm the water is so clean you can swim and fish right off the major 7)thoroughfares. One of the most popular spots for fishing is outside the royal palace. Here salmon and 8)sea trout are caught on their migration from the 9)Baltic to 10)Lake Malaren. Among the more humble species to be hooked are 11)perch, 12)pike, 13)zander and Baltic 14)herring.
  不过,与在北美不同的是,在瑞典你不需要去偏远的北方才能邂逅新鲜的空气和纯净的水源。实际上,就在斯德哥尔摩的市区,水域都是如此地干净,你甚至可以在主干道边游泳、钓鱼。其中一处最受欢迎的钓鱼之处就在皇宫的旁边。在鲑鱼和海鳟从波罗的海到马拉伦湖洄游时捕渔,同时还能钓到其他种类更为一般的鱼,如河鲈、梭子鱼、梭鲈和波罗的海青鱼。

  The city of Stockholm was founded in the 13th century on an island where Lake Malaren flows out into the Baltic. As time passed the inhabitants spread out across the neighboring islands and mainland to the north and south. The current population of greater Stockholm is 1.7 million, with about 700,000 living within the city limits.
  斯德哥尔摩城于13世纪建于一座小岛上,马拉伦湖从这里流入波罗的海。随着时间的流逝,岛上的居民开始向四周邻近的岛屿以及大陆的北部和南部迁移。目前整个斯德哥尔摩地区的人口为170万,其中约70万居住在城市里。

  Stockholm is beautifully situated on 14 islands separated by wide bays, broad channels and narrow waterways. Surrounded by unspoiled countryside, the city is also peppered with lovely parks. In the heart of the capital the contrast between old and new is striking: an 15)ultra modern city center 16)adjacent to the cobbled alleys and medieval buildings of 17)Gamla Stan (Old Town).
  美丽的斯德哥尔摩坐落在14座小岛上,岛屿间由宽阔的海湾、宽广的道路和狭窄的水路分隔开。整个城市由未受过污染的乡村环绕着,城市中间还密布着景色优美的公园。在首都的中心地区,新旧文化的反差极为明显:极其现代的市中心紧靠着鹅卵石铺就的小径和中世纪建筑风格的旧城区。

  Visitors to Stockholm are strongly recommended to purchase a Stockholm Card. The card gives you free entry to 75 museums and attractions, free travel by public transport, free sightseeing by boat as well as several other bonus offers. You decide whether you want a card that is valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours. The card will not be valid until it is stamped with the time and date the first time you use it. Two child cards can be purchased per adult card. The card is valid once per attraction and entitles you to unlimited travel by metro, bus and 18)commuter train.
  对于所有到斯德哥尔摩的游客们,强烈推荐购买一张“斯德哥尔摩通行卡”。该卡能让你免费进入75个博物馆和观光点,免费搭乘公交车辆,免费乘坐观光游船,并且还有许多其他的额外好处。你可以自己决定购买有效期为24、48或72小时的卡,而该卡在盖章标明你第一次使用它的那个日期和时间才开始生效。儿童卡的价格是成人卡的一半。该卡在每个观光点能使用一次,并让你能够不限次数地乘坐地铁、公交车和市郊火车。

  Stockholm’s 19)Viking heritage may be enjoyed by taking a boat trip to see the remains of the old capital at 20)Birka and the 1,000-year-old town of 21)Sigtuna. 22)Medieval Stockholm can be experienced by visiting the Medieval Museum or by merely strolling through Gamla Stan, where many of the churches and other buildings date back 800 years or more.
  乘一条小船去比尔卡城和有着1000多年历史的西格图纳市游览旧首都的遗迹,也许能更好地领略到斯德哥尔摩的维京人传统。参观中世纪博物馆或只在旧城区四处走走,你就能体会到中世纪的斯德哥尔摩的风采,城中的许多教堂和其他建筑的历史都可以追溯到800年前甚至更久远。

  The Swedish royal family is very popular with the people. The Royal Palace in Stockholm is the largest in Europe still in use and the royal family lives in the 18th-century palace at 23)Drottningholm with its world famous theatre.
  瑞典的皇室家族深受人民爱戴。位于斯德哥尔摩的皇宫是目前在欧洲依然被皇室成员使用的皇宫中规模最大的,而皇室家族居住在皇后岛上建于18世纪的宫殿里,其间的戏院举世闻名。

  Stockholm is also a city of the sea, located as it is on the edge of the world’s largest 24)archipelago of more than 25,000 islands. Take a lazy cruise on one of the seven genuine stea-mers still in use. In service for a century, these old character ships have been beautifully restored to maintain their 25)Edwardian ambience. All the steamers boast first class restaurants in which you can enjoy lunch or dinner.
  斯德哥尔摩也是一座海洋之城,坐落在世界上最大的群岛旁边,群岛包括了25000多座小岛。你可以乘坐目前仍在使用的七艘汽船中的一艘缓慢地巡游一番。尽管这些老式汽船都服役了一个多世纪了,几经修复后他们依然完美地保持着爱德华七世时代的风格。这些汽船上都有着一流的餐厅,你可以在其间享用午餐或晚餐。

  Water is a dominant element in the life of Swedes. In Stockholm, the “Venice of the North,” water adds immeasurably to the charm of this already captivating city. As Sweden’s international tennis champion, 26)Bjorn Borg puts it: “Sweden is surrounded by water and even away from the coast our lakes and rivers are the dominant feature of the landscape. I live outside Stockholm and some days I take my boat into the city when I have a business appointment. I 27)get a tremendous kick out of that. Who wouldn’t?”
  水在瑞典人的生活中占据着主导地位。在斯德哥尔摩这座“北方的威尼斯”,水为这座迷人的城市更添光彩。作为出身瑞典的国际网球冠军,比约•伯格曾说过:“瑞典四面环水,即使是在远离海岸的地方,我们的湖泊和河流依然是风景中的主要特色。我住在斯德哥尔摩城外,有时候有工作上的约会时,我就会驾船进城。我非常享受这段美妙的时光。有谁不会呢?”

  Who indeed!
  谁说不是呢!


  
  小链接: 塞尔玛·拉格洛芙和《尼尔斯骑鹅历险记》
  女作家塞尔玛·拉格洛芙,生于瑞典西部韦姆兰省玛巴卡村的贵族军官家庭。3岁时因下肢患病行走艰难,主要与书籍和会讲故事的外祖母朝夕相伴,并接触了大量的童话和民间传说。1882年,拉格洛芙入斯德哥尔摩皇室女子师范学院学习,毕业后担任小学地理老师达10年之久,并于业余从事写作。1906年应瑞典一位小学校长的请求,她答应写一本适合儿童读的书。年近50岁的她为了搜集有关资料,忍受着腿疾带来的巨大痛苦跋山涉水,在全国进行实地考查。她在认真研究飞禽走兽的生活习性和规律、调查各地的风俗习惯和民间传说的基础上,终于完成了举世闻名的童话小说《尼尔斯骑鹅历险记》。1909年,“由于她作品中特有的高贵的理想主义、丰饶的想象力、平易而优美的风格”,获得了诺贝尔文学奖。
  《尼尔斯骑鹅历险记》讲述了一个名叫尼尔斯的14岁小男孩的故事。他家住瑞典南部,父母都是善良、勤劳却十分贫困的农民。他不爱读书学习,调皮捣蛋,好捉弄小动物。一个初春,尼尔斯的父母上教堂去了,他在家因捉弄一个小精灵而被魔法变成了个拇指般大的小人儿。正在这时,一群大雁从空中飞过,家中一只雄鹅也想展翅随大雁飞行,尼尔斯为了不让雄鹅飞走,紧紧抱住鹅的脖子,不料却被雄鹅带上高空。从此,他骑在鹅背上,跟随着大雁走南闯北,周游各地,历时八个月才返回家乡。他骑在鹅背上看到了祖国的旖旎风光,学习了祖国的地理历史,听了许多故事传说,冒了不少风险,也经受了种种苦难。在漫游中,他从旅伴和其他动物身上学到了许多优秀品质,逐渐改正了调皮捣蛋的缺点,培养了助人为乐的精神。当他重返家乡时,不仅重新变成了一个高大漂亮的男孩,而且成了一个温柔、善良、勤劳的好孩子。

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