1)Ian Fleming's 2)Jamaica “潜入”伊恩·弗莱明的牙买加
文字难度：★★★★
The first law for a secret agent is to get his geography right,” Ian Fleming wrote in 3)The Man with the Golden Gun. And so it is for anyone following the trail of the man who created the world’s most famous secret agent through his adopted island of Jamaica, a journey that starts near Kingston on the tiny 4)spit of beach called the Palisadoes that connects the city to Norman Manley International Airport. Only five miles from the airport, you are already deep into Ian Fleming’s Jamaica. 
对一个特工来说,首要的就是得深谙自己所处的地理位置,”伊恩·弗莱明在他的小说《金枪人》中这样写道。对于任何一个想追随这位塑造了世界上最广为人知的特工的男人其足迹,穿过他栖身的牙买加岛屿的人而言,同样如此。这个旅程的起点是金斯顿附近的小海滩帕利萨多斯,它连接着金斯顿和诺曼曼利国际机场。离开机场仅5英里(约8公里),你已经深入到伊恩·弗莱明的牙买加。
The island was Fleming’s retreat, artist 5)colony and passion, and he repeatedly sent Bond on assignment there. The legendary spy experienced the island as Fleming did—beautiful and underdeveloped with enough exoticism, history and potential for danger to justify it as a 6)backdrop for postwar 7)espionage adventure.
这个岛曾是弗莱明的闭关幽居之地,也是艺术家热衷聚居的地方,他一次又一次地将邦德派到那里执行任务。这位充满传奇色彩的特工如弗莱明那般体验着这个岛屿的一切——风光旖旎、原始天然、弥漫着异国风情、有着浓郁的历史沉淀,却又危机四伏,这一切足以造就二战后谍海风云的背景条件。
Fleming’s Jamaica is a 8)Venn diagram of three 9)overlapping spheres: the author’s actual Jamaica of the 1950s and early ’60s (when the island was a British colony rapidly becoming a hot spot for the rich and famous); the semi-fictional Jamaica as seen through James Bond; and Jamaica as a 10)location for the 007 film 11)franchise.
弗莱明的牙买加是由三个重叠区域所构成的一幅维恩图:有作者见过的真实的20世纪五十年代和六十年代初的牙买加(当时这里是英国的殖民地,正是迅速崛起的为富人与名流所青睐的地方);有詹姆斯·邦德眼中半虚构的牙买加;还有007系列电影的专属拍摄地。
In 1947 Fleming wrote a portrait of his adopted home in 12)Horizon magazine, influential enough to fuel a postwar tourist 13)boomlet among 14)well-heeled Britons and Americans. “I have examined a large part of the world,” he wrote. “After looking at all these, I spent four days in Jamaica in July 1943. July is the beginning of the hot season and it rained everyday at noon, yet I swore that if I survived the contest I would go back to Jamaica, buy a piece of land, build a house and live in it as much as my job would allow.” He did just that, as foreign manager for 15)Kemsley Newspapers. 
1947年,弗莱明在《地平线:文艺评论》杂志中描述他的栖身之所,引起了轰动效应,在英美富人中激起一轮二战后的旅游热潮。“我考察过世界很多地方”,他写道,“比较过后,1943年7月,我在牙买加待了四天。七月是炎炎夏季的开始,每日正午总会大雨倾盆,但我发誓,若能平安度过这场考验,我将重返牙买加,买块地,盖个房子,在那里能住多久就住多久,只要工作允许。”后来在他担任《肯斯里》报系国际新闻部主任一职期间,他确实移居牙买加了。
The Palisadoes at night is still as Fleming described it in 16)Dr. No, a “long 17)cactus-18)fringed road” with “the steady 19)zing of the crickets, the rush of warm, scented air ... the necklace of yellow lights shimmering across the harbor.”
帕利萨多斯的夜景仍一如弗莱明在007系列小说之《诺博士》中描述的那样,一条“两侧种着仙人掌的绵延的小路”上,“蟋蟀长鸣,热浪袭人,香气弥漫……港口对面,橙黄的灯火犹如一条项链,闪烁着微光”。
When Fleming made his first visit to the island 65 years to the month when I was there, he chose to stay in the cooler 20)climes of the 21)Blue Mountains. I followed his lead that evening and took the B1 road, which curls itself up into the mountains. My destination was Strawberry Hill, an 18th-century coffee plantation turned resort owned by Chris Blackwell, the founder of Island Records. Over a breakfast of 22)scrambled eggs and Blue Mountain coffee (the same morning 23)fare Fleming preferred and Bond nearly always enjoyed) on the balcony of a private 24)bungalow, guests overlook the same 25)vista Bond did in 26)Live and Let Die, where he “had his breakfast on the 27)veranda and gazed down on the sunlit panorama of Kingston.”
在我来到岛上的那个月的65年前,弗莱明第一次踏上这片土地,他当时选择住在蓝山上比较凉爽的地方。那天晚上,我跟随他的足迹,取道这条B1路,一路盘旋而上,走入群山之中。我的目的地是草莓山,一座18世纪的咖啡种植园,后成为度假胜地,为环球唱片公司的创始人克里斯·布莱克所拥有。早晨,在私人小屋的天台上,品味着炒鸡蛋与蓝山咖啡(弗莱明偏爱的早餐,也是邦德几乎天天吃的东西),邦德在《生死关头》中看到的景观这儿的客人也可以尽收眼下:他“在阳台上吃早餐,凝视着脚下日光照耀的金斯顿”。
Most of Fleming’s days in Jamaica, though, were spent on the northern coast, best reached by the Junction Road “that runs across the thin waist of Jamaica.” Bond and his local 28)sidekick Quarrel, travel the same route in Live and Let Die to get to the secret island 29)lair of the 30)villainous genius Mr. Big. The mountainous interior of the island, “like the central ridges of a crocodile’s 31)armour” as Fleming put it in Live and Let Die, is a constant pull on the steering wheel, back and forth, through little villages, past cliffside 32)sundries shops and on numerous 33)detours into 34)rutted, gravel-spattered dirt roads. It’s a relief to reach the other side and spill into the 35)ramshackle town of Port Maria, its 36)pristine 37)aquiline bay 38)punctuated by the39)diminutive and uninhabited Cabarita Island, which inspired Surprise Island, the fictional hideout of Mr. Big. 
然而,弗莱明在牙买加的时光多半在北海岸度过,而通往那里的最佳路径就是连接路——“它绕过牙买加的‘小蛮腰’”。在《生死关头》中,邦德和他在当地的伙伴奎罗就是沿着这个路线去到恶毒天才“大人物”在岛上的神秘窝点。岛中央群山耸立——用弗莱明在小说《生死关头》中的形容——“就像鳄鱼脊背上的凸纹”。驾驶时要牢牢抓紧方向盘,左兜右拐。车子沿途穿过小村落,经过往时的悬崖边上的杂货店,兜兜转转,车轮碾在车辙杂乱、沙砾遍布的泥路上。来到玛利亚港的另一头,在这个老旧的小镇下车,我才松了一口气。玛利亚港那浑然天成的鹰嘴形海湾被这个渺无人烟的小岛——卡巴雷塔岛阻隔。这里,就是惊奇岛的原型,小说中“大人物”的藏匿之处。
Fleming’s 40)haven was Goldeneye, named for a wartime 41)operation he was involved in, and now one of the most exclusive resorts on the island. Situated in the small town of Oracabessa, once a banana port, Goldeneye is an 42)unassuming patch of land with stone paths and trees planted by former famous guests. Handwritten signs mark the mango planted by 43)Pierce Brosnan, the lime tree by 44)Harrison Ford, the royal palms by the Clintons. Set among them are three villas that, with Fleming’s original house and a restaurant overlooking the ocean, make up the current property. Where the restaurant sits, a 45)gazebo once stood. Fleming liked to take notes in it.
弗莱明的栖身之所是其宅邸“黄金眼”,此名取自他在二战期间参加的一次军事行动的代号,如今这里已成为岛上最高级的旅游胜地之一。“黄金眼”位于小镇奥卡贝莎——曾经的香蕉进出口港口,是一座不甚起眼的建筑。别墅内铺着小石路,留有以往著名访客种下的树木。手写的牌子标记着皮尔斯·布鲁斯南栽下的芒果树,哈里森·福特种的酸橙树,克林顿一家种下的皇家棕榈树。三间小屋坐落其间,加上弗莱明的旧宅,还有一个俯瞰大海的餐厅,这就是如今的“黄金眼”别墅。餐厅的所在之处,曾是旧宅的露台所在。早年,弗莱明喜欢在此处做笔记。
Goldeneye is the 46)mecca of any Fleming 47)pilgrimage, but not the heart of it. In Horizon, he wrote about the other elements that made his life in Jamaica fulfilling, from the food (“delicious and limitless”) to the weather, and most importantly, the people. Fleming wrote that the locals “will surprise and charm you,” which they often did during my time there. 
“黄金眼”是弗莱明的崇拜者的朝圣之地,却并非弗莱明情牵牙买加的重要原因。在《地平线:文艺评论》杂志中,他写下充盈他牙买加生活的其他元素,从食物(“美味可口而且应有尽有”)到天气,还有最重要的是,这里的人。弗莱明说当地人“会带给你惊喜,让你为之着迷”,我在那里的时候也颇有同感。
But even in Fleming’s lifetime, Jamaica was evolving. By the time he wrote his final Bond novel, Golden Gun, in 1964, the island had gained independence from Britain, and Fleming’s nostalgia for the colonial era was 48)channeled into his spy. Waiting in the Kingston airport for a flight to 49)Havana, the secret agent recalls his “many assignments in Jamaica and many adventures on the island ... the oldest and most romantic of former British possessions.” As he reflected on his 50)escapades in Dr. No and his love affair with 51)Honeychile Rider, “James Bond smiled to himself,” Fleming wrote, “as the dusty pictures clicked across his brain.”
然而,即使是弗莱明在世的时候,牙买加也已经在不断发展。1964年,他写007系列最后一本小说《金枪人》时,这个岛已经脱离英国获得独立,弗莱明对殖民地时代的缅怀之情通过他笔下的特工得以抒发。在金斯顿机场等候飞往哈瓦那的航班时,邦德回想着他“在牙买加执行过的任务,在岛上的冒险经历……英国殖民地中最古老的、最浪漫的一方土地”。当他想到自己在《诺博士》中的不羁奔命,还有他与邦女郎黎蜜之间的风流韵事时,弗莱明是这样写的,“当那一幕幕模糊的画面在脑海中穿梭而过时”,“詹姆 斯·邦德不由地笑了”。
