帕特丽夏·菲尔德,这个名字对你来说可能还很陌生,但是她的作品你一定听说过:《欲望都市》、《时尚女魔头》、《丑女贝蒂》,甚至还有前段时间在中国刮起一阵时尚旋风的《杜拉拉升职记》。这些影视剧中的服饰和造型无不出自菲尔德之手。不论是演艺界,还是时尚界和文化界,这位年近70的红发女子都是炙手可热的大红人。她影响力之深,足以直接推动时尚潮流,无怪乎大家都心悦诚服地称之为“时尚教母”。
这一期,我们就一起来听听这位超级服装造型师讲述时尚之道,以及由她亲自传授的穿衣法则。
美式发音 适合泛听
Fashion Career 时尚人生
A native of New York, Patricia Field studied languages and political science at university, but found herself more attracted to the city’s trendy clubs and fashion scene.
After a brief 1)stint 2)apprenticing at department stores, Field opened her own 3)boutique in Greenwich Village at the age of 24.
Loud but chic, her early designs had wide appeal, and her reputation for “fashion forward” made her popular among celebrities and 4)fashionistas.
In the 1980s, she began costume designing for television and film, and has won two Emmy awards.
More recently, she shot to superstardom for her work on the trend-setting series Sex and the City.
Interviewer: So I see you’ve had a long and 5)illustrious career. I think in 1952 you did costume designer assistant on Guiding Light episode, you opened your first boutique in 1966 in Greenwich Village, you won an Emmy, you’ve been Oscar nominated, you’ve been credited with the 6)leggings craze in 1970’s…and yet, here’s a 7)movie that at its core, in a way, is sort of saying that this desire for fashion is almost a disease in some people, that it’s actually, you know, a negative thing. I don’t know if that’s something you’ve recognized, and that for some people it’s just too much of an obsession.
Field: Oh, I don’t know. I think in our society we have a tendency to, you know, make everything a bit too serious than it really is, and for me fashioning—getting dressed—it’s expressing yourself, making yourself feel good, you look pretty, you wanta stay in shape, you know, it’s a way of having fun and expressing who you are. And I think the only time it becomes so called “ugly” is, you know, when women or men, really don’t think about it that much and just sort of run and put something on ’cause they saw it in a magazine or they saw somebody else wearing it, and then there’s really no interest or 8)originality involved in it, and so no matter what you pay for it, you’re really not gonna look special in it.
Interviewer: I guess, in a way, that the last 10 years has been an incredible kind of run of success with Sex and the City and Ugly Betty and Devil Wears Prada, and that…when you met Sarah Jessica Parker on the…in 1995 for the Miami Rhapsody movie, did you kinda sense it then that this was a whole new world that was opening up or was it just a…
Field: Yeah, when I met Sarah Jessica to do Miami Rhapsody, the thing was, like, I liked working with her. She knew…she had her opinions, which I liked, you know. I prefer that to somebody with absolutely no opinion, but I think neither of us really had a thought of Sex and the City at that point and what it became. It just, I look at Sex and the City, it’s like a good hand at poker. You know, all the cards are good, so you win. But I think the timing had a lot to do with it because I think people wanted to have fun and get escape and watch something a little bit unrealistic. It was the timing, very much so, because the decade before you would have never had a success in this type of movie.
帕特丽夏·菲尔德是个土生土长的纽约人,大学读的是语言学和政治学,但后来发现自己更钟情于纽约的潮流俱乐部和时装界。
在百货公司当了很短一段时间学徒后,24岁的菲尔德就在格林威治村开设了自己的时装店。
菲尔德早期的设计色彩大胆而别致,广受大众追捧。她被誉为“时尚前沿”,这让她在名人和时尚发烧友中大受欢迎。
上世纪80年代,她开始为电视和电影设计服装,并且两次夺得艾美奖。
较近段时间,因为在那部引领时尚的电视连续剧《欲望都市》中工作出色,她一跃晋身超级明星之列。
记者:我知道你的职业生涯漫长而又出色。据我所知,1952年,你就在电视剧《指路明灯》中担任服装设计助理工作;1966年,你在格林威治村开设了自己的首家时装店;你得过一次艾美奖,获得过奥斯卡提名;你对推动上世纪70年代的裤袜热潮功劳不少……然而,这部电影基本上,某种程度上,说的是这种对时尚的渴望在某些人身上已经几乎成了一种病,你知道,那其实是种消极的东西。我不知道那是否也是你认同的观点,就是说,对于某些人,那真是太沉迷了。
菲尔德:噢,我不知道。我觉得我们的社会有一种倾向,你知道,就是把任何事情都搞得比事实更加严重。在我看来,时尚——穿衣——那是表达自我,让自己感到愉快,看起来很漂亮,希望保持身材,你知道,那是追求快乐,表现个人特点的一种方式。我想,唯一会令时尚变成所谓的“丑陋”的时候,就是,你知道,无论女人还是男人,没有想太多,只是因为他们在某杂志见到过,或者看到有人穿过,就随便把一些衣服穿在身上。这其中毫无兴致或者创意可言。因此,无论你为它花了多少钱,你穿上它看起来也不会很特别。
记者:我想,从某种程度上说,一路有《欲望都市》、《丑女贝蒂》和《时尚女魔头》这些电视剧和电影,过去10年是一连串令人难以置信的成功。当你在1995年拍摄《爱情狂想曲》遇到莎拉·杰西卡·帕克时,你有感觉到一个全新的世界在向你招手吗?或者那只是……
菲尔德:嗯,当我遇到莎拉·杰西卡出演《爱情狂想曲》时,情况是,我喜欢为她工作。她懂得……她有自己的想法,我喜欢这样,你知道。我比较喜欢这样的人多于完全没想法的人。但我想,那时我们俩谁都没太注意《欲望都市》,更没想到它会如此轰动。那只是,我回过头来看《欲望都市》,那就像是一手好牌。你知道,所有牌都很好,所以你赢了。但我觉得,时机与其成功有很大关系,因为我觉得那时的人想要一些好玩的东西,逃离现实,看一些有点不实在的东西。是时机的问题,很大程度是这样,因为10年前这种类型的电影从没有成功过。
Fashion Philosophy 穿衣哲学
My fashion philosophy is basically the same as my general philosophy, and that is to understand that this is your life and you can only enjoy it because, otherwise, you’re wasting your time.
Of course I’m not gonna wear some crazy shape that nobody’s seen before. It’s within the spectrum of our clothes. But how you put it together and what story you want to tell is, for me, the way you achieve your individual style. It’s a story-telling of who you are and what you’re doing that day. A good way to get the idea is [to] remove yourself from yourself and put yourself on a stage. That stage can be the office that day. Then you just go get dressed. Once you have the idea, it’s just “connect the dots.” Your 9)accessories will really help you in this narration of the mood, of the look.
It’s a hot summer day in the city and we’re goin’ to the beach. I call it a dress. Of course, underneath it we have on our beachwear. In this case it’s a 10)bandeau underneath. Beach back-pack that holds all our things, and under that, with the bandeau, is a little super short 11)denim short, which becomes our swimsuit. Pop on a pair of sneakers for a nice kinda young, urban look.
Situation; I’m going shopping today with my friends. A little T-shirt dress, a denim jacket over that’ll give you a little waistline, if you like. You know, 12)clogs are the latest thing, I heard. I think they work. Lucky charms are happy. Lucky charms appeal to all human beings who love life and luck and all the good things that life has to offer. No matter who we are, a lucky charm is something universal to all of us. What more could you ask for?
我的时尚哲学基本上和我人生哲学一致,那就是:要明白,这是你的人生,你只能享受人生,否则,你就是在浪费时间。
当然,我不是要穿没人见过的古怪服饰。那都是从我们平常的衣物里面进行选择的。但如何将它们配搭起来,要说一个什么故事,对我来说,就是一种成就自己个人风格的方式。那是一个讲述那天你的身份和你的行为的过程。获得灵感的一个好办法是将自己抽离出来,将自己放在一个场景里。这个场景可以是那天的办公室。然后你就只管找衣服穿去。一旦你有了想法,一切就会变得顺理成章了。你的饰物确实会帮助你表现你的心情,你的外观。
现在场景是城市中的夏日,我们要去沙滩。我称这件为女褂。当然,里面再穿沙滩装。这样的话,里面穿一件抹胸。沙滩背包装上我们的所有东西,下面是,和抹胸陪衬的是一条超短牛仔布短裤,这样配搭就成了我们的游泳装。再穿上一双运动鞋,营造一个漂亮年轻的城市造型。
情景:今天我要和朋友们去“血拼”。一条小T恤裙。如果你喜欢的话,外穿一件牛仔布夹克,这样会让你显出一点腰身。我听说眼下木底鞋正流行。它们配起来还蛮好看的。而我觉得幸运符让人愉快。幸运符是为所有热爱生活和运气,热爱所有人生应该有的美好事情的人而设的。无论我们是谁,一个幸运符适用于我们所有人。你还想奢求什么呢?
翻译:未几
