文字难度：★★★☆
“素颜风潮”席卷时尚娱乐界,各大娱乐时尚杂志纷纷以明星“素颜”出镜为卖点。继法国版《Elle》杂志2009年4月号的主题“铅华洗尽”之后,美国版《Harper’s Bazaar》2009年9月号亦策划了一期名为“实实在在的美丽”的主题。这场“素颜革命”引发的不仅仅是对“本色回归”的讨论,更是满足了众看客的偷窥欲——铅华褪尽,明星还美丽吗?会不会如狗仔队偷拍的那些“妆后”照片那样,让人既惊又喜?——惊于化妆技术之高超,喜于明星也并非美得无懈可击。其实,无论是天然雕饰下,出水芙蓉般的素颜,抑或是浓墨重彩下,堪与桃花相映红的俏颜,真正让时尚娱乐界为之倾倒的,是名叫“美丽”的东西。 ——Mac
1)Elle’s no makeup issue, an all-black issue of 2)Vogue, a shift toward healthier runway models and a demand for older models 3)evince the fundamental changes underway in the beauty industry.
April’s issue of French Elle featured eight well-known European stars without makeup or retouching. The Stars Without Makeup issue embraces the beauty of the women without their makeup, rather than pointing out their flaws, as is common practice in U.S. 4)tabloids.
But the claims of “no 5)airbrushing,” “no makeup,” or “no photoshopping” are not without controversy. Claiming to feature models without makeup or 6)touch-ups can 7)put advertisers in the hot seat if doubts arise. As for the stars without makeup issue of French Elle, the political blogger Matthew Yglesias expressed his point: “In some ways, I think this might actually be a step back.”
法国版《Elle》杂志四月号专题是拍摄八位著名欧洲女星的素颜,并且没有对她们的照片做任何润饰,这期“铅华洗尽”展现的是女性的素颜美,而不是像美国小报的一贯做法——直指她们的瑕疵。
《Elle》杂志有一期专题为“铅华洗尽”,《Vogue》杂志出了一期只用黑人做模特的“全黑”号,外形更健康的T台模特日益受宠,大龄模特也有市场,所有这一切都表明,时尚产业出现根本转变。
但是“不加润色修饰”、“素颜”或者“不用电脑PS”这些主张,并不是没有争议的。如果对模特“素颜”或“零润色”上镜的主张的质疑声音响起,那么广告商就会如坐针毡。对于法国版《Elle》该期“铅华洗尽”的主题,政评博客主马修·依格雷西亚斯评论道:“从某些方面看,我觉得这实际上很可能是一种倒退。”
“A lot of people have done a lot of work over the years to get people to understand that images you see on magazine covers are not images of actual human beings. They’re complicated collaborations between photographers, hairstylists, makeup people, and digital image-retouchers that use real people as an important element of source material. The results have an extremely vivid 8)hyperreal quality to them that we intuitively respond to as if we’re just looking at pictures of people, but we can come to understand what’s really happening and that nobody ought to 9)beat themselves up over not looking like a computer-retouched image.” He writes in his blog.
The fact remains that we are living in an incredibly visual culture, and the majority of visuals we’re bombarded with continue to be of “perfect,” 10)unblemished women who have 11)lucked out in the genetic lottery department and have been worked on by a team of experts: A trainer, a 12)dermatologist, a makeup artist, a hair stylist, a photographer with assistants in lighting, a photo editor to choose the best shot and an art team to digitally 13)manipulate that picture into the “image” that ends up being printed. So how is showing “stars without makeup”—and not in a cruel, tabloidy way—a step back? Isn’t any opportunity to question the 14)artifice we’re subject to a step forward?
“这些年来,很多人做了大量努力让大众明白杂志封面上的人物形象并非真实的人像。这些杂志上的人物形象都是摄影师、发型师、化妆师和电脑修图高手以真人为原始素材,经过繁复的合作而创造出来的成果。这些成果对他们来说都具有极度逼真的超现实感,而我们也直观地认为我们看到的就是人物相片,但是我们还能认识到照片背后的故事,明白到我们不应该因为自己的外貌不如这些电脑润色过的形象那样靓丽而自责。”依格雷西亚斯在自己的博客里如是写道。
事实依然如此:我们生活在一种强大的视觉文化里,而在每天轰炸我们视觉的影像中,绝大部分的女性形象仍是“完美”、“零瑕疵”的。这些女性本来就是在基因方面中了头彩的幸运儿,“天生丽质”之外还有一组为其修饰的专家:私人健身教练、皮肤专家、化妆师、发型师、摄影师和数名灯光助理、能挑选出最佳相片的图片编辑,还有利用数码技术把相片修饰成最终刊登在出版物上的“完美形象”的美编组。那么,怎可以说展现明星素颜的一面——并非以小报的那种残酷的展现方式——是一种倒退呢?对我们一直屈从的这种“人工修饰”的手段提出质疑,这何以不算是个进步?
Of course, then there’s the question of what the viewers, really want out of a magazine. While the ladies on French Elle are indeed beautiful without makeup, would you still be interested in the magazine if they were not pleasing to the eye? Don’t we require our “stars” to indeed be “heavenly”—more beautiful than we are, with fewer flaws and that certain something that sets them apart? Otherwise, why are they stars? Why 15)elevate them?
Yglesias writes, “At a time when public awareness of the fakeness of magazine covers is growing, we get a new artifice presented as 16)unadorned reality.” But certainly we’re aware that French Elle’s “reality”—stars without makeup—is not a feat of 17)photojournalism or a documentary. It’s still a fashion magazine. But in the context of other, more manipulative publications, it does 18)shake things up. And think about this: If all magazines suddenly did away with artifice, would you miss it? Do you open a 19)glossy magazine hoping to see glamour, stunning makeup and 20)sumptuous clothes? How much more “real” are you actually willing to get?
当然,还要考虑到观众到底想从杂志中得到什么。无可否认,法国版《Elle》上的那些素面朝天的明星确实漂亮,但是如果这些明星一点都不赏心悦目,那么你还会有兴趣看这本杂志吗?我们不是都要求明星“美若天仙”——比我们更美,瑕疵更少,且有某些方面使她们与众不同吗?否则,为什么她们能够当明星?为什么要捧她们?
依格雷西亚斯写道:“当公众越来越觉得杂志封面很虚假的时候,我们看到了一种展示“真实”,对图片不加修饰的新手段。”然而,我们当然还是知道那期法国版《Elle》展现的“真相”——素颜女星——跟图片新闻或者文献纪录的不一样。它依然是一本时尚杂志。但是从其他方面来看,与其他大加修饰的刊物对比,这期《Elle》确实有震撼力。再想想:如果所有的杂志都突然不用修饰技术了,你会不会怀念以前的杂志?当你翻开一本服装杂志时,是否会希望看到美艳的妆容和奢华的衣服?你到底能接受多“真实”的形象?
Tabloids in the States love pointing out 21)cellulite on 22)candid photos of celebrities at the beach, and most magazine covers feature heavily made-up, heavily airbrushed photos of models or celebrities. But the attitude of U.S. consumers may be on the move toward a more realistic model and star.
23)Baby Boomers in the United States have changed the type of models in demand, looking for faces and bodies in advertising that more accurately reflect their own self-image. Models such as 24)Naomi Campbell (39), 25)Christy Turlington (40) and 26)Claudia Schiffer (38) are preferred to 20-somethings for campaigns aimed at more mature women.
美国的小报都喜欢刊登明星在海边被偷拍的照片,对他们身上的一团团赘肉指指点点,而大多数杂志都采用浓妆艳抹的模特或明星经过电脑润饰的照片做封面。但是美国的消费者可能渐渐倾向于更真实的模特和明星。
美国二战后“婴儿潮”时期出生的一代人改变了市场对模特类型的需求,他们在广告里寻找着能够更真实反映他们自我形象的人物。对于面向成熟女性的广告活动,纳奥米·坎贝尔(39岁)、克里斯蒂·特林顿(40岁)和克劳蒂亚·雪佛(38岁)这些模特比那些二十来岁的模特更吃香。
With retouching once a very expensive last resort option, it is now commonplace in the fashion world. But more and more stars have chosen to pose without the security blanket of makeup or retouching. In 2009 People Magazine did an entire photo feature of celebrities looking great without makeup; some stars were invited to do the photoshoot without makeup: 27)Eva Mendes, 28)Cindy Crawford, 29)Claire Danes and 30)Amanda Bynes.
As one of the stars invited to the photoshoot, Crawford, the supermodel says “I think 10 years ago it would have been harder for me to do this picture. But as I’ve gotten older and my life has changed, I wear less makeup. I’m just more comfortable with myself now. My husband gives me confidence, too, because I don’t feel like I have to put makeup on to look beautiful to him. And my kids don’t like makeup at all because when I put it on, they think I’m going to work. To me, a bad face day means a bad night’s sleep. Even makeup does not make you feel better.”
用电脑来润色修饰,从前因价格高昂而作为“最后的选择”的这项技术,现在在时尚界已经非常普及。但是越来越多的明星选择舍弃“化妆”这种让形象具有安全性的方式,也不要电脑润色。2009年的《人物》杂志刊登了一系列的名人主题照片,这些照片上的名人不施脂粉仍漂亮悦目。被邀请拍这一组素颜照的明星包括:伊娃·门德斯、辛迪·克劳馥、克莱尔·丹斯,以及阿曼达·拜恩斯。
超级模特克劳馥也是被邀请拍照的明星之一,她说:“我想要是十年前的话,让我拍这种照片比较难。但是随着年龄的增长和生活的改变,我的妆没有那么浓了。现在我对真实的自己感觉更加舒服。丈夫也给了我信心,因为我不会觉得我必须化妆他才会觉得我漂亮。而且我的孩子也一点都不喜欢我化妆,因为我化妆,他们会以为我要外出工作。对我来说,夜晚睡眠质量不好就意味着早上脸色不佳,即使化妆也不会让你感觉好起来。”